Daily trends

Demna's first full Gucci collection didn't chase minimalism — it staged a collision between aristocracy and pop culture inside a replica luxury boutique. Tartan pleated into skirts, trenches cinched hard at the waist, and the house's horsebit hardware stacked three high on belts, bags and bracelets.

The pagoda shoulders and bourgeois handbags read almost conservative at first glance, until you notice the proportions: exaggerated, ironic, completely deliberate. This is heritage treated as costume, worn with a wink rather than reverence.

On the street, Milan answered with plaid coats worn as outerwear over pleated skirts — the new Gucci uniform, translated for daylight.

On September 25, Demna presented his first complete personal vision for Gucci in Milan, and he staged it like a boutique. Models walked a catwalk threaded through mocked-up shops, trailing fingers over display cases of jewellery and handbags while Rosie Huntington-Whiteley and Poppy Delevingne passed rails of gowns and uplit It bags.

The menswear sat at the relaxed end of the house codes. Preppy staples — polo shirts, white jeans — loosened into oversized, slouchy silhouettes, with tailoring that draped rather than structured. Horsebit hardware ran across belts, bags and shoes, anchoring the softness with something unmistakably Gucci.

The real social engine was the front row. Shawn Mendes sat with the Gucci CEO and Donatella Versace, while Thai stars Billkin and PP Krit attended as house ambassadors, and ATEEZ's Choi San crossed over at Dolce & Gabbana in a green velvet blazer finished with a watch-face belt buckle. When the show is a store, the front row becomes the advertising.

Louise Trotter's Bottega Veneta is lightening up. After last season's padded shoulders, the Spring 2027 show moved into white handmade lace, chunky crochet and floral fringe — craft so tactile it practically reached past the front row.

The colors did the loosening: lilac, butter-yellow and washed blue against chocolate leather. Baby intrecciato turned into waist scarves worn like belts, and mismatched earrings mixed leather with clay — the arty-crowd jewels of the season.

Milan's street already agrees. Fringed bags and crochet trims are everywhere outside the shows, and fall trend roundups are full of tassels and hand-finished texture — craft dressing is the new quiet luxury.

The Laver Cup runs September 25 to 27 at London's O2, but the menswear story happened before a ball was hit. At the team photoshoot at Greenwich's Old Royal Naval College and the black-tie Opening Night Gala, players traded kit for tailoring — and the internet had opinions.

Carlos Alcaraz's baggy beige-grey suit, reported as a stone-hued double-breasted Louis Vuitton, sparked a viral fan pile-on, with commentators saying the fit aged him badly. BOSS, meanwhile, dressed Team World — Taylor Fritz, Learner Tien in a cream suit worn with a crewneck tee instead of shirt and tie, Rafael Jodar — plus captains Andre Agassi and Patrick Rafter.

The read is bigger than one ill-fitting suit. GQ reportedly tapped legendary stylist Jim Moore to dress the tennis stars in earth-toned neutrals, and Tien summed up the brief: a suit he can breathe in. Comfort-cut, tonal, tie-optional suiting is now the athlete-off-duty uniform.

Maximilian Davis keeps circling the same silhouette: high waists, doubled belts, 1940s bones. For Spring 2027 he sharpened it with something darker — latex opera gloves against sun-faded workwear, tailoring that reads restrained until you look twice.

The tension is the point. The house's archival ease — the Vara pump, the F wedge — gets a fetish edge, and the military belts do the talking. It's polite on the hanger and perverse on the body.

Outside, the look translates cleanly: a wide belt cinching a trench, gloves with a knit, trousers that sit high and stay there. Workwear has rarely looked this deliberate.

Kith turns 15 this weekend, and Ronnie Fieg is celebrating by going back to where it all started. The ASICS GEL-LYTE III 'Salmon Toe' — his first-ever sneaker collaboration, released in just 72 in-store pairs when Kith's first Brooklyn shop opened in 2011 — returns Monday, September 28 at 11am ET.

This is the most faithful reissue yet. The familiar navy, white and salmon blocking lands on ASICS' Remastered shape, rebuilt to mirror the model's 2007 specifications, with a pigskin nubuck upper, perforations across the vamp, asymmetrical ASICS and FIEG branding on the split tongues and heel tabs, and Kith 15th anniversary artwork on the footbeds. The price is $195.

The drop caps a weekend of anniversary programming: the in-app drawing opened September 25 and closes today, and the Footwear Archive exhibition in Brooklyn — 1,849 collaborations across 32 brands, plus the Assouline book — wraps its public run today. For a generation of collectors, this is the grail that started it all.

Domenico and Stefano went home for Spring 2027. Stravaganza Siciliana restaged the family wardrobe across three generations — crochet shawls, lace slips, fur-edged robes — worn by daughters, mothers and grandmothers walking the same runway.

Nothing here is ironic. The maximalism is inherited: the black lace, the leopard, the gold jewelry piled like it came from a drawer rather than a design studio. After seasons of restraint elsewhere, it felt like a pressure valve lifting.

The takeaway for real life is permission. Wear the heirloom lace, pile the gold, let the fur stole do the talking — maximalism works best when it looks like it was always yours.

The biggest streetwear drop of the week landed September 24, when the Supreme x Nike Fall 2026 apparel collaboration went live globally. The headliner was the Faux Fur Reversible Parka: water-resistant nylon taslan on one side, faux fur on the reverse, in red, woodland camo and black.

It did not last. The $428 parka sold out at retail in about 22 seconds, according to SupremeCommunity, with restocks detected as recently as September 26. The rest of the range — a $138 football jersey, nylon hooded jacket, cargo pant, fleece sets, a $78 Trooper Hat and a $40 Oval Beanie — underlines the collection's theme: technical sportswear cut with streetwear utility.

For Supreme, deep into its second decade of Nike collaborations, the formula still works: take a performance silhouette, wrap it in something tactile and slightly absurd, and let scarcity do the rest.

Moschino has new hands on the wheel, and the joke is getting real. Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo — the ex-Sunnei duo — staged their debut on a Milan parking-garage roof at golden hour, models walking one way while extras, dogs and drag queens streamed the other: clothes for real streets, not the runway bubble.

The old slogan-camp is dialed down but not gone. Raffia-trimmed Bermudas, leather trousers and breeches with toreador tassels kept the volume wearable, while a life-sized black lacquer cat clutch and a tossed-off GOOD LUCK tee carried the prankster spirit Franco Moschino built the house on.

It might be the smartest read of the current mood — maximalism with a wink. When everything else in Milan is going earnest and handcrafted, Moschino's lightness is the counter-programming.

Milan Fashion Week opened with a spectacle at the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II, and Vogue World: Milano put menswear's two poles on one runway. J Balvin opened the show's 'Artisanal Revolution' act in a pink-and-black brocade three-piece Dolce & Gabbana suit, finished with an ornate gold Dolce gemstone necklace of hand-embroidered glass beads inspired by Venetian drapery.

The maximalism kept coming. MGK made his runway debut in a neon-orange Byblos jumpsuit with Camper shoes and slicked-back blonde hair, while Roberto Bolle wore Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria — a gold bodice, burgundy trousers and a floor-length cape.

The counterpoint was quiet. Alton Mason walked in relaxed Brunello Cucinelli tailoring, all fluid trousers and muted neutrals. Between brocade and restraint, the night mapped exactly where 2026 menswear lives: ornament versus ease, with celebrities doing the modeling.