Big bags, dark runners, skeleton dials: men's week in Milan

The slim crossbody had a good run. This week's bag conversation belongs to the carry-everything: 40-centimeter-plus totes and weekenders in distressed leather, waxed canvas, wool and suede, built to swallow a laptop, a gym kit and the rest of the day.

The evidence is commercial, not just editorial. An affordable-bag roundup pulled 160 comments naming La Partenza, COS and Ronning, and the SS27 bag reports have oversized totes dominating the men's runways into next summer, from Dior Homme to Louis Vuitton.

Buy the rule, not the logo: slouchy body, sturdy handles, a material that ages. Chocolate suede and waxed canvas are the two textures to hunt.

The shoe of the season is dark, rugged and faintly retro-tech. Navy and grey 990s, suede-and-mesh hybrid runners and dad-shoe brown are converging into one silhouette: the autumn runner.

The release calendar agrees. New Balance's 990v4 Made in USA in Navy/Meteorite dropped today at $195, and HUMAN MADE's first original sneaker, the Duck Kick in suede and mesh with a hidden tongue pocket, lands September 26, Japan exclusive.

Style them like the posts do: cuffed denim or cargos, visible socks, and let the shoe carry the outfit's color.

The skinny jean is officially a period piece. Baggy, bootcut and heavily washed denim is everywhere this week, from a 15K-like budget styling reel to BAPE's FW26 denim drop.

The premium end is anchored by selvedge. Wax London's Felix in Japanese selvedge from the Kaihara mill in Hiroshima marks the brand's first Japanese denim, and DENHAM's Fall 26 'Crafted for Generations' campaign puts relaxed and loose fits front and center.

The cut to buy: loose fit with a wash that looks lived-in. Let them stack on the shoe.

Two watch stories collided this week. Skeletonized dials went mainstream with Fossil's revival of the Machine platform, while the serious end got a grail: Marathon and Watches of Espionage's grade-5 titanium SAR.

The numbers tell it. Fossil's Machine X1 pairs a skeletonized dial and sapphire crystal with a 24-jewel Japanese automatic at $495. The titanium SAR is limited to 200 pieces at $2,250, with ordering opening today at 2pm Eastern and delivery in January.

The takeaway for wrists: show the mechanics or earn the scars. A visible movement and a real water rating beat a fashion dial.

Autumn outerwear turned tactile and technical. Supreme and Nike's Fall 2026 collaboration launched today with a reversible faux-fur and nylon parka, while eYe Junya Watanabe MAN reworked Mammut's alpine archive into six technical jackets.

The automotive-fashion crossover keeps accelerating. Porsche and BOSS's Fall/Winter 2026 collection pairs a $1,450 camel leather jacket with concealed magnetic closures against padded overshirts and Pascha-check fleece.

And the quiet staple refuses to die: J.Crew's barn jacket, in canvas and a top-rated Italian suede, is the layer the feed keeps reaching for.