Daily trends

Maria Grazia Chiuri's second ready-to-wear collection for Fendi, shown September 23 inside a mirrored box inspired by Luciano Fabro's Cubo di specchi, felt like the moment she stopped proving herself and started enjoying the house.

The wardrobe begins with underwear: sheer slip dresses, lace-trimmed bras worn with matching shorts, shirts left open across the chest. Then it keeps going. Fur stoles, baggy denim, relaxed tailoring and a scaled-down Baguette built for little more than a phone pull the sensuality back to earth.

The muse was Raffaella Carra, the 1970s Italian pop provocateur, and her spirit is everywhere: visible underwear, plunging necklines, trailing dresses, clothes comfortable with being a little excessive. After a careful debut last February, this is Chiuri dressing with freedom.

Milan Fashion Week has a new front row, and it speaks Thai. Win Metawin, PP Krit and Billkin turned their Milan appearances into the most-liked menswear content of the week, with Win's Prada reel passing 300,000 likes and PP Krit's carousel drawing more than 16,000 comments.

What makes it a menswear story rather than a celebrity story is the styling. Clean lines, dark palettes, precise proportions: Win in a fitted dark polo and black trousers at Prada, Billkin working sharp evening tailoring. It is minimalism that photographs well and copies easily.

The numbers point to where menswear attention actually lives now. A single front-row reel outperformed most runway coverage this week. The front row is the new campaign.

Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons opened Milan Fashion Week with the most disciplined provocation of the season: 63 looks, every single one built around the skirt. No dresses. No trousers. The invitation was a swatch of Velcro loop with no hook, a material about attachment presented incomplete.

Inside the Fondazione Prada, the skirt did everything: severe wrap skirts with slits up to there, sheer knife pleats in faded Easter pastels, kilts with raw edges and enlarged hooks, pencil skirts swaying under glass rhinestone flowers. Up top, the tiniest bandeau and bralette tops, some with mini bags attached at the collarbone.

The styling trick to steal is the tension: pretty disrupted by tough. A psychedelic micro-floral skirt held together with a white bow; leather pleated sets in bleeding acid colors alternating motocross pads with Peter Pan collars. Where Prada leads, the high street follows, and this one is already walking.

The classic raincoat just got shorter. Japanese select shop ADAM ET ROPE teams with British heritage brand Mackintosh on the HUMBIE SL GTX EX, launching Saturday, September 26: the bestselling HUMBIE cut even shorter so it can be worn like a jacket.

The details survived the crop. Rivet-reinforced flap pockets, the removable chin strap, four buttons instead of six, all in wool melton with a smooth luster, in black and navy at 169,400 yen including tax.

It lands exactly on Milan's current coat fixation. Street-style coverage keeps spotlighting the double-breasted coat as the season's statement piece, and retail data shows searches for longline and duster coats up 22 percent last quarter. Heritage outerwear is this week's drops centerpiece.

Fausto Puglisi called his Spring 2027 collection House of Prints and staged it as a night out: a mirrored room, bass you could feel, 45 looks drawn from Los Angeles and the pleasure of dressing to be seen. After five years of flirting with the archives, he committed.

Leopard that looks wet, tiger, devore velvet catching light like smoke, dense embroidery, all spiked, shredded and clubbed up. The collection lived in separates: halter tops tied high, lace-trimmed camisoles, miniskirts cut to barely exist, low-rider jeans with thong straps riding above the waistband as part of the look.

The front row did its share of the work. Cardi B arrived thronged by photographers in an animal-print coat and dark sunglasses; Naomi Osaka and Olandria completed the tableau. This was also Puglisi's first show since the Marquee Brands acquisition, and he answered quiet luxury with heels, skin and movement.

If there is one item dominating Milan's street style scene this week, it is the leather jacket. Worn over tailoring, chunky knitwear and formal looks, in cuts from straight and masculine to fitted nineties versions, cropped jackets with sharp funnel necks, and long blazer-like coats.

The drop calendar agrees. Awake NY's Fall Winter 2026 Cold World collection brings a new iteration of its skeleton leather jacket with Vanson Leathers, with wider availability from September 26. RADIO EVA and AVIREX rebuilt the MA-1 flight jacket in three unit-coded colorways with a detachable cowhide hood, launching the same day.

The formula on the street is simple: a single leather jacket over jeans and a knit is enough to make a basic outfit feel considered. One good leather jacket remains the highest-leverage purchase in menswear.

While the week shouted, Jil Sander whispered, and the whisper carried. The house's Spring 2027 detail carousel, a quiet study of seams, hardware and fabric, pulled more than triple the account's usual likes. In a week of leopard and lingerie, restraint became the contrarian flex.

It fits the broader street style picture in Milan: the strongest off-runway looks are built on considered pieces rather than loud ones. A perfect trench, a sharp sunglass, leather worn soft. The details do the talking.

For shoppers, the takeaway is permission to buy less and choose better. One immaculate coat beats five statement tops, and the numbers this week agree.

No shoe had a bigger week than the loafer. G.H. Bass introduced the Venetian Gathered, the newest addition to the Weejuns family, answering years of requests for a sleeker Venetian profile.

The Italians are in on it too. Loro Piana pushed its Joan loafer for fall, and Crockett and Jones put the Boston front and center in its AW26 main collection film. Meanwhile nanamica's fourth collaboration with REGAL Shoe and Co. drops today: GORE-TEX plain-toe shoes in navy velour and black smooth leather at 55,000 yen.

The verdict from FashionBeans' menswear reset says it plainly: sneakers have not disappeared, but they are no longer the default. The penny loafer leads the shift, working with tailoring, denim and even shorts.