Paris Is Cutting Suits Slim Again

Saint Laurent's Sept 29 show was the menswear event of PFW SS27. Actor Belmont Cameli arrived in an all-black oversized suit that set the template: sharp, dark, unapologetic.

The message from the runways is restraint. Vaccarello strips jackets of structure and lets silk, fluid wool and shadow do the talking. Jonathan Anderson agrees at Dior, cutting menswear tailoring out of silk so pinstripes go sheer and featherweight.

After seasons of slouch, the pendulum is swinging back toward precision - just softer, lighter, and worn with attitude instead of armor.

This week's sneaker shelf reads like an art gallery. The ASICS LYASA FF II x Kiko Kostadinov splits the toe into a tabi silhouette with a bound leather toe-box - high-fashion references landing on a performance runner.

Meanwhile the retro runner refuses to die. New Balance dropped the 990v4 Made in USA in a deep red wine rouge for Sept 24, and Highsnobiety's sneaker crew previewed the JJJJound x 990v3 collaboration for FW26 in minimalist olive.

Add the Tom Sachs x NikeCraft 'Demerit,' Bad Bunny's adidas Badbo 1.0, and Saucony's western 'Space Cowboy' drop on Oct 2 - fall's shoe conversation is designer-led, not retro for retro's sake.

Outside the shows, the best-dressed man in Paris this week is Akin Faminu. Three looks, three African designers: a blush-pink TJWHO sleeveless top with wide-leg grey trousers, a multicoloured Emmy Kasbit blazer with layered gold, and an all-black OJ Clothing look with a pleated skirt silhouette and neck scarf.

The wider sidewalk mood is monochrome and architectural - oversized tailoring, dark leather, statement scarves, loafers and minimal sneakers. The personal-appropriation era of the classic suit continues.

Texture is doing the talking where color isn't: suede is everywhere, from chore jackets to loafers, and LEVEL Shoes' suede series reads as the season's shopping list.