Paris Goes Gold While Miu Miu Takes Sportswear Out at Night

Anthony Vaccarello's final Saint Laurent show, staged under the Eiffel Tower lights, was the week's most emotional fashion moment. After a decade at the house, he signed off the way he arrived — in house-code shine: lamé, brocade, lace and even latex brushed with gold leaf, closing with a metallic gold passage beneath chandeliers that several outlets called a defining image of the week.

The gold was broken only by dramatic black gowns in velvet and gauze, and by Charlotte Gainsbourg singing live during the finale. It read less like a collection than a curtain call — a designer writing his own last paragraph in precious metal.

The commercial takeaway is simpler: gold lamé is the shoppable bridge. Pencil skirts and lace midis in gold are in current stock everywhere, and the farewell has given them a story.

Miu Miu's SS27 show at the Palais d'Iéna, presented October 4, made the week's most legible silhouette: the sports bra, worn as evening. Miuccia Prada's brief was to 'bring elegance to sport,' and the runway answered with halter-neck sports bras in dark gray with low-cut backs, layered under low-slung pleated charcoal midi skirts finished with full-length crystal-beaded panels.

Gigi Hadid closed the show in the look, paired with reconstructed New Balance RC150 racing sneakers — technical mesh, loosely knotted laces — which WWD called 'an instant hit' in the day's fashion-intel conversation. Upcycled Wrangler denim with crossed-lacing details and wax-laminated cracked suede completed the sport-luxe collision.

The celebrity casting dominated the conversation: Olivia Colman walked (The Cut's backstage photo drew 1,758 likes), alongside Emma Corrin — framed by Vogue Italia as a 'celebration of everyday beauty.' Forum critics were split on the styling, but the silhouette itself is already shoppable through existing Miu Miu x New Balance stock.

Alessandro Michele staged Valentino's SS27 'Antibiblioteca' inside the Bibliothèque Sainte-Geneviève on October 4, asking guests to bring a book for donation. What followed was an 80-look procession that The Impression scored 9.1 — the clearest counter-argument the week offered to quiet luxury's drift.

The opening pairings set the register: lime green lace peplum tops with lavender pencil skirts, marigold satin against baby pink organza tulip, cobalt blue feathered floral midis. Then came sheer mesh evening gowns with voluminous neon taffeta bustles and transparent bodices, balloon pants in shimmering pinstripes and candy plaid, pleated fan-like strapless tops like floral bouquets.

The commercial codes are sheer and embellishment — lace, sequins, feathers, all buyable now. ELLE's takeaway on X: the collection 'embraces a bold new era of maximalism.' The embellished knee-high boots, per The Zoe Report, are 'sure to be a hot ticket item.'

At Dior, Jonathan Anderson treated air as a material language. His SS27 collection — shown at the Bassin Octogonal, stripped of its lotuses and lilies with mist curling over the water — reinterpreted Dior signatures in weightless silk mousseline, Chantilly lace and translucent gauze. Cropped Bar jackets, asymmetrical gathered skirts and dropped-waist dresses in swingy chiffon rippled in the breeze; sturdy garments felt light as air.

It is the quietest entry in the week's sheer story, which runs from Valentino's transparent bodices to LOEWE's glass-bead sheers and into the streets, where translucent slips under oversized blazers and lace hosiery have become one of 2026's defining visual movements.

Dior lists no public prices on ready-to-wear — the house's lace story is most shoppable in its most-wanted bag, reimagined in latte and gray oblique embroidery with white lace.

Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's third LOEWE collection, shown October 2 at the Château de Vincennes, traded ornamentation for slick materials and color. Minty green, yellow, blue and red-orange dominated — summer stripes and florals over metallic collars with orange-blue gradients, wrap-style sunglasses styled throughout.

The details were the story: scuba-style moccasins in tan, black, pink and yellow with discreet toe-box logos, branded leather swim caps, LOEWE tags sewn onto trouser flies. Womenswear turned revealing — an ultra-mini leather dress, sheer spaghetti-strap dresses rolled to the chest, sheer tank dresses in layered blue, yellow and red-orange, and sheer dresses in translucent glass beads 'wrapped and tucked with the spontaneity of a beach towel.'

The glass-bead sheer dress is the craft story of the week, framed through the LOEWE FOUNDATION Craft Prize. The show closed with boucle minis and hotpants in frayed floral embroidery.